-40%

Luthier's Radiused Dish Form - Custom Radius (12' or Greater)

$ 34.32

Availability: 35 in stock
  • Type: Any Radius available. Please Specify with seller
  • Return shipping will be paid by: Buyer
  • Restocking Fee: No
  • Refund will be given as: Money back or replacement (buyer's choice)
  • Suitable For: Lutherie
  • Brand: Unbranded
  • Condition: New
  • All returns accepted: Returns Accepted
  • Material: MDF
  • Item must be returned within: 14 Days

    Description

    Luthier's Radiused Forms
    Any radius available
    upon request
    The Indiana School of Lutherie Bookstore
    CNC Radius Dish Hollow Forms.
    They are made from 3/4" Solid MDF and are made to very strict tolerances by cutting
    concentric circles o
    n a CNC machine.   All sales from our bookstore go toward the further development of our non profit Lutherie School.  Please keep in mind, when you purchase from our bookstore, you are helping to further the development of lutherie and help those in their quest to become better Luthiers!
    We appreciate your support! 10'r and smaller also available on a separate
    listing.
    How to Care for your radiused dish
    Please follow these instructions to ensure your form remains accurate
    When you receive your form, allow your dish to acclimate (on a rack that allows air on all sides) in a dry, climate controlled
    environment
    for 48-72. hrs.
    Immediately following
    we recommend gluing your form down to a solid backing base such as 3/4" MDF.  You want to use something stable, and MDF seems to do an excellent job. Some luthiers even use a  double deck as a backing board for extra stability.  If you prefer to use plywood,  one should use a higher grade, Baltic birch furniture grade ply with multiple ply (11-13) ply.  You should
    NOT
    use your average plywood available at local Lowes or Home depot. MDF however, is readily available at these stores and would be a much better choice.
    After a reasonable glue cure time (at least 24-48 hrs for titebond), seal your dish. Do not wait to long to get your dish sealed, using a couple thin coats of sanding sealer such as  Zinsser seal coat
    (de-waxed is important)
    Then,
    lightly sand
    before applying some type of durable finish, such as polyurethane, that will stand up to adhesives and solvents. I would recommend keeping your coats light to prevent any sagging but enought coats to protect your dish (a minimum of 2).  I would also
    recommend sealing all sides, top, and bottom of your completed jig, including base decks.